Susan Fang Fall 2025: A Joyful Alternative
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There was no fur, faux fur or single furry detail in sight at Susan Fang’s show on Sunday morning — and that’s news. In a Milan season that has explored different takes on wild and raw femininity, the Chinese designer at her solo debut in town displayed a compelling alternative: naïf, delicate and joyful. Supported by Dolce & Gabbana as part of its ongoing project endorsing young designers, the show was a breath of fresh air and a little mood-boost with its freewheeling creativity, artisanal touches, colorful palette and intricate ornaments. In a preview with WWD, Fang teased she was indeed in the pursuit of happiness with this collection, in which she intertwined her family history, Chinese culture, Italian craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology. Flowers and natural landscapes were the main themes, reinterpreted in an array of techniques, spanning from the handmade beading of the dandelions suspended on the opening dresses to the 3D-printed floral bralettes and headpieces. Other iterations ran the gamut from tiny florals applied on quilted padded jackets and miniskirts to fantasy tulle gowns and short frocks in candy floss hues. You May Also Like The central part of the lineup winked more to Dolce & Gabbana’s seductive codes. Fang leveraged access to the brand’s archives and design team to introduce ladylike coats and sequined cocktail dresses covered with her mother’s paintings of natural landscapes and farming scenes, as well as more formfitting silhouettes, such as ruched body-con frocks and net dresses she embellished with the same motifs. “Her dream was to have her own art exhibition, but she has given so much to my brand and her dream has been a bit delayed,” Fang said about her mother, who has helped develop unique textile techniques for the brand since its launch in 2017. Before ending on a high note with origami-like dresses and long skirts crafted from layers of colorful organza strips bouncing as models strode the runway, Fang also added pretty denim separates and lingerie pieces to her lexicon. A plethora of embroidered and crystal-encrusted accessories rounded off the collection, which probably was the most complete of the guest designer showcases Dolce & Gabbana has hosted so far.
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